Routine

Do You Actually Need a Toner?

By 9 min read

For most people, no. Traditional toners were astringents built to strip residue left by soap based cleansers, and modern cleansers made them unnecessary. A hydrating toner is a different product with a different job: it supplies water before your moisturiser seals it in. Whether you need one depends entirely on which of the two you are holding.

We sell a toning product, so treat the rest of this as an argument you should check rather than a verdict you should accept. The reasoning is below and you can disagree with it.

Two different products share one name

This is the whole confusion, and almost nothing written about toners acknowledges it.

The original toner was an astringent. Decades ago, cleansers were largely soap based, alkaline, and left a film. They also pushed the skin’s surface pH well above where it sits naturally. A toner was the correction: alcohol and witch hazel to strip the residue, and an acidic formula to pull the pH back down.

It worked, in the sense that it solved the problem it was designed for. It also stripped a lot of other things on the way past, which is why so many people remember toner as the step that made their face sting.

Modern cleansers are not soap. They are surfactant systems formulated near skin pH, and they rinse clean. The problem the astringent toner existed to solve has largely been engineered out of the previous step.

So when someone tells you toner is an unnecessary relic, they are right about that product.

The second kind of toner shares the name and nothing else. It is a water based, humectant heavy layer applied to clean skin, and its job is to put water onto the skin before the next product seals it in. That is not a relic. It is a distinct step doing something a moisturiser structurally cannot.

How to tell which one you are holding

Read the ingredient list, not the front of the bottle. The words “toner”, “tonic”, “essence”, “mist” and “lotion” are marketing categories, not formulation categories, and they tell you nothing.

Signs you have an astringent: alcohol denat, SD alcohol or ethanol high in the ingredient list, usually in the first five. Witch hazel distillate near the top. Menthol. A tight, squeaky feeling afterwards that people often read as “clean”.

Signs you have a hydrating toner: glycerin, hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, betaine or glycols in the first handful of ingredients. No alcohol high in the list. Skin feels cushioned rather than tight.

A quick honesty note on that first list. Fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol are not the same thing and are not stripping. They are emollients. The ones to look for are alcohol denat, SD alcohol and ethanol.

Does a toner do anything a moisturiser cannot?

This is the question that actually decides it, and the answer sits in how moisturisers are built.

The NIH’s StatPearls reference on moisturisers separates the ingredient types by function. Humectants attract and bind water. Occlusives form a barrier that slows water evaporating from the skin. Emollients smooth the surface.

Most face moisturisers are weighted toward occlusives and emollients. Their primary job is holding water in.

Which leaves an obvious gap. If the moisturiser is mostly a lid, something has to have put water under it. That is either surface water from washing, which evaporates within about a minute, or a deliberate hydrating step.

The same reference makes a second point that is easy to miss and matters a great deal: humectants used without an occlusive over the top can increase transepidermal water loss. Below roughly 70 percent relative humidity they draw water from deeper in your skin rather than from the air, and with nothing sealing the surface, that water leaves.

So a hydrating toner used alone is not just useless, it can be counterproductive. And a moisturiser used alone on dry skin seals in very little. The two only work as a pair.

Who does not need one

Being straight about this, because a brand telling you that everyone needs its product is not worth reading.

You do not need a toner if your moisturiser already does both jobs well. Some do. A moisturiser with glycerin high in the list, applied to genuinely damp skin straight out of the shower, covers the supply step and the sealing step in one product. If your skin is comfortable eight hours later, you have nothing to fix.

You do not need one if you are using an astringent out of habit. If your current toner has alcohol denat in the first five ingredients and your skin feels tight after it, removing that step is an improvement on its own. You do not need to replace it with anything.

You do not need one if your routine is already long and you are not sure why. Adding a step to a routine you are not evaluating is how people end up with eleven products and no idea which two are working.

Who probably does

If your skin feels tight within minutes of moisturising. That is the signature of a good lid over nothing. More moisturiser will not fix it; water under the moisturiser will.

If you live somewhere with heating or air conditioning running most of the year. Indoor air in a heated or cooled room sits well below the humidity where humectants can draw from the atmosphere, so the supply has to come from the routine.

If you use actives. Retinoids, exfoliating acids and vitamin C all tend to leave skin more prone to water loss. A hydration step before the sealing step gives the barrier more to work with. Nothing here treats or prevents anything; this is about comfort and how the skin feels.

If you wear makeup. Dry skin under foundation is where most texture problems show up, and it is usually a supply problem rather than a foundation problem.

Can you skip it and just use more moisturiser?

Not really, and this is the most common substitution people make.

Applying more of an occlusive product seals harder. It does not add water. If the underlying issue is that there is nothing under the lid, a thicker lid produces skin that feels greasy on the surface and tight underneath at the same time, which is a genuinely unpleasant combination and one people usually blame on the wrong product.

We wrote about this at more length in why your skin is still dry after moisturising.

Where it goes if you use one

After cleansing, before everything else, onto skin that is still slightly damp. Then the moisturiser within about thirty seconds, while the toner is still there to be sealed in.

That thirty second window is the part most people get wrong, and it is the difference between the step working and the step being decoration. There is more on the timing in should you apply moisturiser to damp skin, and on the order of a full routine including serums and SPF in toner before or after moisturiser.

When it is not the routine

If your skin is persistently red, itchy, scaling or painful, that is not a question a toner answers, and continuing to adjust cosmetic products can delay finding out what is actually going on. A GP or a dermatologist is the right next step. Cosmetic skincare is not a treatment for a skin condition and nothing here should be read as one.

What we make, and why there are only two

The One Toning Elixir is the supply step. It is alcohol free, and it exists to put water onto the skin, not to strip anything off it. The One Hydrating Elixir is the seal. They are sold together as The Ritual because separately each one only does half of an argument.

We used to sell twelve products. We now sell two, because when we looked honestly at the other ten, most of them were solving a problem these two had already solved.

Frequently asked questions

Is toner necessary?

Not for most people, if you mean the traditional astringent kind. Modern cleansers already do what those were invented to correct. A hydrating toner is a different product with a different job, and whether you need one depends on whether your moisturiser is supplying any water or only sealing it in.

What does toner actually do?

It depends which kind. An astringent strips residue and oil and lowers surface pH. A hydrating toner adds water and humectants to clean skin so the moisturiser applied afterwards has something to hold in.

Can I use a toner without a moisturiser?

It is not a good idea. Humectants applied without an occlusive over the top can increase water loss from the skin, because below about 70 percent humidity they draw water from deeper in the skin and nothing stops it evaporating. A toner is the first half of a pair.

Does toner shrink pores?

No. Nothing topical changes pore size. Astringents can temporarily make pores look smaller by tightening the surrounding skin, and the effect fades.

Is alcohol in toner bad?

Alcohol denat and SD alcohol give a fast, clean finish and can leave skin feeling tight, which is why many people find them uncomfortable over time. Fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol are a completely different class of ingredient and are not stripping. Check which one is in your list.

Is a toner the same as an essence or a mist?

Functionally they overlap and the names are marketing rather than formulation. Judge any of them by the ingredient list and by whether the skin feels cushioned or tight afterwards.

Should I use a toner morning and night?

If you are using one as the supply step, yes, since the sealing step happens twice a day too. The routine takes about ninety seconds each time.

Sources

    • Sethi A, Kaur T, Malhotra SK, Gambhir ML. Moisturizers, StatPearls, NIH National Library of Medicine. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
    • American Academy of Dermatology, Dermatologists’ top tips for relieving dry skin. aad.org

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Part of the team at Victoria Limarin, the Australian skincare brand.

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